The W in Torres del Paine is the most popular multi-day hike as you come to see most of the highlights of the park. If you have a look at the map of the trail you'll quickly realize why it is called the W trek. (updated: August 2018)
I published all information needed to plan your trip to Chile in one clear and concise guide book based on my experience. This book includes travel guides for each region of Chile with a strong focus on Patagonia and is designed to save you a lot of time & will make your trip much easier!
I'll first explain the standard route and then give examples of longer & shorter itineraries. Please plan your trips always regarding to your physical ability and your experience. If you have no or just a bit of hiking experience keep it low and plan more time for each trek.
(use the anchor links to jump to the section, use „Top“ to get back to this menu)
- Preparation for the hike
- The W in 5 days, 4 nights
- The W in 4 days, 3 nights
- The W in 6 days, 5 nights
1) Preparation
To prepare for trekking in Torres del Paine checkout my other post named ‘How to prepare for hiking in Torres del Paine' with information about transport, accommodation in Pto. Natales, Gear and prices.
Moreover I recommend a good health & travel insurance: the one I used from WorldNomads is perfect for this trekking trip as it covers also adventure activities!
Please make sure to reserve all camping spots in advance as this trek is the most popular one and visitor numbers increased during the last 3 years. Reservations for Campamento Torres, Italiano and Chileno are mandatory during the official high season from October – April. Please be aware that Campamento Torres is closed due to reconstruction works for the whole 2018-2019 season!
If you are too late and not able to make reservations your only chance is to take part in a guided trekking tour or explore the park with day hikes.
2) The W in 5 days, 4 nights (100 km, 139.800 CLP)
This is the perfect schedule for a relaxed time in the park starting with a nice boat trip and the Glacier Grey, finishing with the sunrise at the Torres in the morning of the last day.
Day 1: Puerto Natales – Refugio Grey (11 km, 15.000 CLP + 21.000 CLP + 20.000 CLP + 5.000 CLP)
Leave Puerto Natales with the early bus (15.000 CLP return ticket) and get off at Pudeto (next stop after the park entrance – fee: 21.000 CLP) where you catch the catamaran to Paine Grande (20.000 CLP). Use the waiting time to visit the waterfall nearby (ask for the time of the boat before leaving).
After your arrival in Paine Grande start walking to the Refugio Grey – the path goes uphill, along the Lago Grey with some lookouts on the way. The whole trek will take around 3-4 hours so you'll arrive in the afternoon, can setup your tent (5.000 CLP) and have dinner. If you have some time left you can go down to the beach and maybe touch some icebergs.
Day 2: Glaciar Grey – Paine Grande (19 km, 6.000 CLP)
Get up early, leave your stuff at the camp and just take a daypack to hike up to Paso (at 8:00 a.m.). After around 1-1,5hours you'll reach a former campsite (signs with “no camping”) with a lookout nearby (you can see a small path which leads to the platform, hard to find!) – time to enjoy the view to the Glacier for a while (9:30 a.m. – 10:00 a.m.). Now you can decide if you want to continue a bit more into the direction of Paso or keep it shorter. The good thing about the way to Paso: you'll have great views to the Glacier and see a bit more of the massive southern icefield. The downside: it's uphill and adds more km to your trek today (on top of the mentioned 19 km). Do not make all the way up to Paso as it is a pretty long walk (you have to get back to Paine Grande today on time to be fit for the next day).
After your return to Refugio Grey at around lunchtime (12 / 1 p.m.) pack your stuff and head back down (at around 1 / 2 p.m.) to Paine Grande where you spent the night (6.000 CLP), it will take around 3-4 hours – make sure to find a nice place next to the little hill to avoid a bit of the massive winds down there.
Day 3: Valle del Frances – Los Cuernos (28 km, 70.000 CLP)
Today is a long & tough day, so get up early again and walk (start at 8:00 a.m.) to Campamento Italiano (around 2 hours = 10 a.m.), leave your big backpack at the camp and head to the Mirador Frances with your daypack (take lunch, water, suncream). After 2,5 hours you'll reach the Mirador and have lunch (12:30 pm.m.). Go back down to Italiano, grab your backpack and keep going to Los Cuernos (03:00 / 3:30 p.m.). After another 2 hours you should reach the campsite (at 5:00/5:30 p.m. – 70000 CLP). Alternatively you make it a short (and much cheaper) day by spending the night at Campamento Francés (13.000 CLP).
Day 4: Los Cuernos – Campamento Torres (20 km, free)
On your last full day you have a nice hike ahead – starting flat and going up at the end to the base of the Torres. Start your walk around 9 a.m. to Campamento Chileno. The trail goes along the Lago Nordernskjöld, after around 3,5 hours you'll reach the shortcut to Chileno (it's hard to miss as there is a big sign saying “shortcut to Chileno”). Another 2 hours later you'll arrive at the Refugio Chileno (around 2:30 p.m. / 3 p.m.) you can make a short break and afterwards head uphill to the free campsite Campamento Torres, this will take around 1 hour. After setting up your tent use the chance to visit the Torres for the first time – it's a 45 min walk uphill. Remember that you can only stay there if you made a reservation beforehand!
Note: Unfortunately Campamento Torres will be closed for the 2018-2019 season due to maintenance work – therefore you need to switch plans to camp at Chileno (pretty pricey) or down at Campamento Las Torres (next to Hotel Las Torres). You should consider doing the sunrise hike only if you stay at Chileno and calculate 2,5 – 3h to reach the towers.
Go to bed early today as you have to get up very early tomorrow to see the sunrise at the towers. Depending on the time of the sunrise (ask the rangers) set your alarm 1 – 1,5hours before and prepare a daypack with mat, sleeping bag and breakfast as well as rain jacket)
Day 5: Torres – Puerto Natales (16 – 23,5 km, 2.800 CLP optional)
In summer the sunrise is around 6 a.m., therefore leave the camp with your daypack at 5 a.m. to arrive at the Mirador of the Towers on time. Set up your little picnic and enjoy – if you are lucky you'll see amazing colors with a clear view, having the best breakfast ever. If you are not lucky like me you'll have rain and clouds – in that case you'll love the fact that you've been up here the day before. Don't make the fault to skip the way up when it is raining in the camp – the weather changes really quick and you might regret it later. Go for it anyway as it is your last day and it doesn't matter if your sleeping bag gets wet up there 😉
After your return take down your tent, pack your stuff and leave the camp at around 9 a.m. Head down to the Hotel Las Torres – it'll take around 3 hours to arrive there. Depending on the time you arrive (should be 12 p.m.) you can decide if you want to walk from the Hotel to the entrance (1 hour, 7,5km along the road) or pay 2.800 CLP extra to take the minibus which leaves around 2 p.m.
The Bus back to Puerto Natales leaves at 2:30 p.m. from the entrance as already described in the preparation Guide.
Congratulations! You've done the W in Torres del Paine and with that around 100 km by foot.
3) The W in 4 days, 3 nights (100 km, around 134.800 CLP)
If you are short on time but good in shape you can also do the whole ‘W' in one day less. For this you simply make Day 1 and Day 2 in one day. With this you have a real challenging program right at the start.
Day 1: Puerto Natales – Refugio Grey – Paine Grande (28 -30 km, 15.000 CLP + 21.000 CLP + 20.000 CLP + 6.000 CLP)
Leave Puerto Natales with the early bus (15.000 CLP return ticket) and get off at Pudeto (next stop after the park entrance – fee: 21.000 CLP) where you catch the catamaran to Paine Grande (20.000 CLP). Use the waiting time to visit the waterfall nearby (ask for the time of the boat before leaving).
After your arrival in Paine Grande leave your stuff at the camp and just take a daypack to hike up to the Refugio Grey – the path goes uphill, along the Lago Grey with some lookouts on the way. The whole trek will take around 3-4 hours so you'll arrive in the afternoon (4 p.m.). Keep walking in the direction of Paso.
After around 1-1,5hours you'll reach a former campsite with a lookout nearby – time to enjoy the view to the Glacier for a while (5 p.m.). Do not continue the way up to Paso as it is a pretty long walk (you have to get back to Paine Grande today to be fit for the next day).
After your return to Refugio Grey (6 p.m.) head back down to Paine Grande where you spent the night (6.000 CLP), it will take around 3 hours – make sure to find a nice place next to the little hill for your tent to avoid a bit of the massive winds down there.
Continue with Day 3 of the previous itinerary
4) The W in 6 days, 5 nights (100 km, around 137.000 CLP) – not in 2018/19!
So you decided to take it easy and enjoy a day more in this amazing park? Great, I guess you'll not regret it and you've a bit more time for Lookouts and Pictures.
For stretching your stay it's the best to split the very tough 3rd day and change the stops afterwards a bit. Therefore start with the standard itinerary and continue on Day 3 with this:
Day 3: Valle del Frances – Campamento Italiano (22,5 km, free)
You don't need to get up so early today (start at 10:00 a.m.) to Campamento Italiano (around 2 hours = 12 p.m.), leave your big backpack at the camp and head to the Mirador Frances with your daypack (take lunch, water, suncream). After 2,5 hours you'll reach the Mirador and have late lunch (14:30 pm.m.). Go back down to Italiano and get your tent ready for the night – as it is a free campsite you don't have to pay tonight.
Day 4: Campamento Italiano – Refugio Chileno (19 km, 139.800 CLP)
Again you can take it easy. Start your walk around 10 a.m. to Campamento Chileno. The trail goes along the Lago Nordernskjöld, after around 5,5 hours you’ll reach the shortcut to Chileno (it’s hard to miss as there is a big sign saying “shortcut to Chileno”). Another 2 hours later you’ll arrive at the Refugio Chileno (around 5:30 p.m.). Remember that you can only stay here if you made a reservation beforehand!
Day 5: Refugio Chileno – Campamento Torres (8 km, free)
As you see you have the most relaxed day ahead because you just move from one campsite to another. Have a slow start and head uphill, set up your tent and use the huge amount of time to spend some hours at the Torres in the afternoon. Also here you mostly need a reservation to camp.
Note: Unfortunately Campamento Torres will be closed for the 2018-2019 season due to maintenance work – therefore you need to switch plans to camp at Chileno (pretty pricey) or down at Campamento Las Torres (next to Hotel Las Torres). You should consider doing the sunrise hike only if you stay at Chileno and calculate 2,5 – 3h to reach the towers.
Go to bed early today as you have to get up very early tomorrow to see the sunrise at the towers. Depending on the time of the sunrise (ask the rangers) set your alarm 1 – 1,5hours before and prepare a daypack with mat, sleeping bag and breakfast as well as rain jacket)
For Day 6 continue with Day 5 of the standard itinerary.
Consider: The free campsite Torres is very popular, therefore you can stay mostly only for one night there.
5) Essentials
I strongly recommend to get a good travel insurance as in almost every case your current health insurance won’t cover Chile. I used the travel insurance from WorldNomads which is perfect for this trekking trip as it covers a wide range of adventure activities including trekking up to 6,000m in the Standard Package. Use this tool to get a price for the exact time needed:
Get my Chile Guide incl. TdP itineraries
This is a clear and concise book based on my experience from 6 months traveling through Chile.
It includes travel guides for each region of Chile as well as a complete trekking guide for Torres del Paine, plus route itineraries. Checklists are included to help make sure you don’t forget anything.
This guide is designed to save you a lot of time & will make your trip much easier. Download it now or buy the paperback and take it with you!
Click here to learn more >>
6) Guided Trekking Tours
Another option is to book a complete tour – this way you can leave the organization, gear rental, transportation, food and booking of campsites to local experts. Though you pay more you'll get the full package this way including porters and a knowledgable guide.
After working with them in Peru I highly recommend the tours offered by G Adventures as their philosophy and focus on sustainable travel are in line with my personal values. With many years of expertise you can expect a well organized, fun trips in small groups with like-minded travelers:
- W-Trek with G Adventures – 6 day trek including meals, guide, camps, tents/hotel, transport and porters
- “O” Circuit-Trek with G Adventures – 11 day full circuit trek (includes the ‘W') including meals, guide, camps, tents/hotel, transport and porters
- Hike Patagonia in depth – active 14 day tour covering the highlights of Patagonia, including the Torres del Paine W trek, El Chaltén (Fitz Roy, Cerro Torre) and El Calafate (Perito Moreno glacier) including meals, guide, camps & tents, hotels, transport and porters
- Patagonia & Tierra del Fuego – active 14 day tour covering the highlights of Patagonia, including the Torres del Paine W trek, El Chaltén (Fitz Roy, Cerro Torre), El Calafate (Perito Moreno glacier) and Ushuaia. This also includes meals, guide, camps & tents, hotels, transport and porters.
7) Video of my experience
In 2016 I revisited Torres del Paine and spent around 2 weeks inside the National Park: first I hiked the full circuit (which includes the “W”), next I stayed at the Hotel Las Torres inside the park for a few more days to explore the several day tour options.
My goal was to create a useful documentary to show which options you have exploring the park, what it is like to hike Torres del Paine and what you get to see when doing so. Enjoy!
Info:
During my time in Patagonia, I hiked the W, the circuit and the Q. I hiked the “Q” in 2013 and did the circuit again in 2016, altogether I spent 3 weeks in the park. All times here are based on my experience (i hiked all the trails I'm writing about) – I would say I'm a bit faster in hiking than the average hikers but I made some stops in between for taking photographs and filming. The prices mentioned are for camping and per Person.
A good hiking map will be provided for free once you enter the park, you should consider getting a waterproof map beforehand for planning purposes.
This article is part of a whole series of free guides for Backpacking in South America.
You hiked the W in Torres del Paine as well? Tell us more!
If you have any tips or hints feel free to join the conversation – post a comment below and share your experience of hiking the W in Torres del Paine!
Moreover you can share this article with your friends on Twitter, Facebook or Google Plus by using the related buttons on the left.
Helpful? Pin Me!
